WHY YOUR LASH LIFTS AREN'T LIFTING...

Every once in a while, you may find that a lash lift doesn’t work as well.

This can happen with new or old clients, clients you have done one million times before, and to lash artists with years of experience. An underwhelming lift can be confusing and disheartening. It may feel like you have done everything correctly, but there are a few subtle factors that can significantly affect the outcome of your lift.

Make sure you are doing the following steps correctly, and your lash lifts will only get bigger and better!

ARE YOU CLEANSING PROPERLY?

It is SO important to thoroughly cleanse your client’s lashes before a lift. This is because oil, makeup and debris can act as a barrier that stops the perm from working. Removing all substances from the lashes allows the hair to fully absorb the solution and the lift to work with no obstacles!

We recommend our Lash & Brow Cleanser for pre-treatment sanitisation. You can use our Lash Cleansing Brush to make sure you are getting in between all the lashes. 

YOU'RE APPLYING TOO MUCH BONDER

Similarly, applying too much bonder to the lashes when sticking them to the shield can act as a barrier to treatment. The adhesive may prevent the solution from absorbing into the lash, causing an underwhelming lift. Make sure you are applying just the right amount of product to get the lashes too stick; ideally, just so the tips of your client’s lashes are stuck to the shield. If you think you have applied too much bonder, use a Y-comb to remove the excess. 

FIX YOUR TIMINGS

One of the hardest jobs of a lash artist is assessing lash density to determine how long to leave the solution on. The more experience you have as a lash artist, the more you will learn. This job can be particularly tricky for beginners. 

You should use your professional judgment to see how thick the client's individual lashes are and decide your timings accordingly. Even leaving them on a minute too long or too little can massively impact the lift. The best thing to do is to use two separate timers for each eye so you can make the processing time as accurate as possible. 

We have provided a time guide below. Please remember you should only use this as a guide and your own professional judgement is still required: 

Very fine lashes 4-5 minutes

Fine or tinted lashes 5-6 minutes

Natural healthy lashes 6-8 minutes

Course healthy lashes 8-10 minutes

SHIELD SIZE & PLACEMENT

A common misbelief is that the large shields produce the biggest curl. This is not the case. The smaller the shield, the bigger the curl, as the smaller shields have the least curvature. This makes small shields ideal for shorter lashes and large shields better for very long lashes. If you use a large shield on short lashes, this can lead to an unsatisfying lift.

Likewise, incorrect shield or rod placement can be a contributing factor to a poor lash lift. You should place the shield as close to the lash line as possible. If there is too much skin showing between the lash line and the shield, it can expose the waterline and create poor results. Exposing the waterline means the lashes are straighter and not positioned in as much of a curl.

For more information, you can watch this video by our Head Educator Kirsty.

YOU'RE NOT CONSIDERING TEMPERATURE

In the winter, colder temperatures can affect your lash lift processing times. Heat acts as a catalyst to speed up the chemical reaction of the perm; the cold acts as the opposite. Therefore, you should bear in mind that in the colder months, lash lifts may need longer processing times. 

You can read more here. 

SOLUTION PLACEMENT

You should place Step 1 from the lash root to about halfway up the lashes, stopping at the point where the lashes start to curl backwards on the shield or rod. If you place the solution too high, you could overprocess the lashes (as the density thins out towards the tips) and damage them, resulting in a poor lift. 

Additionally, when removing the solution, you should use the rolling technique with a dry cotton bud stick to ensure you are not pushing Step 1 higher up the lashes. 

HOW DO YOU STORE YOUR SACHETS?

Store your Lash Bomb sachets at room temperature in a cool, dry environment. Do not refrigerate or freeze. Massage your sachets before use. Once opened, sachets last 7 days for treatments; reseal them with a strip of micropore tape. If you do not store your solution correctly, the product may not work as well, resulting in a poor lash lift.  

IT'S A WATERLESS SYSTEM...

Lash Bomb is a waterless system. This means no water should be used on the lashes between Step 1 and Step 2. You should remove Step 1 with a dry cotton pad. If you remove the solution with a wet or damp pad, the lash lift may not be as successful. 

Advise your client to avoid water on the lashes for 24 hours after treatment to maximise the length of results. You can read more about aftercare here. 

LASH PLACEMENT

When pulling the lashes back onto the shield, you should direct them upwards rather than outwards. If you stick them outwards, the curl produced will not be as big. However, sticking them straight will produce the biggest curl possible.